Tales of the South Seas: Tau Te Ching

The Manu'a Islands group consists of three main islands: Ta'u, Ofu, and Olosega. These islands are located 70 miles east of Tutuila island (where i live) and are part of American Samoa. Having spent a week last summer on the islands of Ofu & Olosega (studying for my board exams), I wanted to visit mystical Tau, the least visited island of the Samoan archipelago. According to Samoan tradition, Tau is the birthplace of all Polynesia. It is believed that ancient people voyaged by sea from the sacred site of Saua to settle all the Polynesian islands. The island is the eroded remnant of a shield volcano with a caldera complex or collapse feature (Liu Bench) on the south face (it looks like half the island just fell into the sea). The summit of the island, called Lata Mountain, is at an elevation of 931 metres (3,050 ft), making it the highest point in American Samoa. Also, Ta‘ū is where Margaret Mead conducted her dissertation research in Samoa in the 1920s.

Getting to Tau is half the challenge...the first day i spent 6 hours at the airport, repeatedly watching other passengers depart for their destinations, only to be told "were in a holding pattern." The thunderstorms seemed to prevent only Tau passengers from embarking. Finally, i noticed an old man get up and walk to the road to wait for his ride. I asked him if he had intended to go to Tau, to which he replied "tomorrow at 8." Unbeknowest to me this was no ordinary man, for this was the Se of Tau (literally meaning flower behind woman's ear). He told me to look him up once i settled in, i had acheived a connection- Fa'a Samoa. The next day the 10-seater Dornier 212 departed Pago without incident and we soon were hovering over the clear blue sea. After passing the powdery beaches of Ofu, hulking Tau came into view. Steep mountain slopes fell upon black volcanic rocks, which were slapped by the crashing waves. The National Park covers the southside of the island, protecting virgin forest, the pacific boa, flying foxes, as well as many species only found on Tau. My first adventure would be to hike down the east coast of the island and curl up around to Laufuti river (one of the purest in the pacific).

Upon landing, i was greeted by Meli, who house i would be squatting in for the weekend. She seemed indifferent to my presence, but had a great view of the ocean from her back deck. The pictures of the National Park homestay program had people weaving baskets and passing around kava, Meli told me where the bathroom was and said she would be at her store (which sold imported chips, soda, and beer). Oh well, i commenced down 8km beach/cliff hike to the river. Walking along spectacular reefs, pebbly beaches, and through jungle seemed like an ideal way to spend a friday afternoon. After 6km the road thinned to path, then eventually broken brush, making trekking quite difficult. Failing to reach the fabled Laufuti river was a momentary setback; so i shifted gears & decided to take a swim and read away the afternoon. After returning home Meli and i sat on her families gravestone (which all samoans put in the front hard) eating chocolate ice cream as the Sa bell rang. This is a 15 minute period, where every village bangs gongs and you must sit and wait for the 2nd bell before returning to your activity. It signifies a time of prayer/contemplation, yet Tau has a second gong at 9pm signifiying a curfew of the streets for the night.

That night i laid in the grass under the stars and read Into the Wild. The next day i hiked up over the mountain ridge to Tau village, hoping to find the Se of Tau. The hike became extremely taxing under the blistering sun, as the road climbed steeper upon each switchback. Unfortunately, no car passed during my 6km walk through the mountains, although the vistas were quite impressive. Numerous bird species- booby, egret, kingfisher, robin...

As the road descended toward Tau village, i noticed a sign board posted on a coconut tree, stating "i will blow your truck into pieces " if you trespass. That was the first time all day that i was glad to be on foot, as having my truck blown up would have spoiled a beautiful day. Later the Se explained that the sign post, reflected a ongoing disupte about one village dumping their trash over the mountain in the other village. Either way it seemed to me that the guy meant business.

Dehydrated and fatigued, i pathetically limped into the village babbling to passersby about the Se of Tau. For having not seen many Palangi's (white people) recently, many villagers seemed fairly relaxed toward this sunburned lunatic hobbling through their village. Suddenly the Se of Tau appeared and ushered me into his house and offered me some ice water. "Where are the people who are looking after you here," i replied "your the only person i know on the island." Maybe ive perfected looking helpless to others after years of backpacking around on thin budgets... the Se gave me directions to a beautiful lagoon where i could swim and read, while he finished preparing a barbeque, followed by inisiting that he take me back to Meli's house over the mountain.

I spent the rest of the afternoon in paradise, swimming in multiple coves, lagoons, and a small boat harbor. I read a bit about the founding of Australia by convicts and took a nap in the shade. I casually strolled back to Tau proper, and sat down for a feast of fresh pig, chicken, and breadfuit. The family made sure i ate a samoan style portion, which i gladly obliged. Afterwards the Se of Tau and i dicussed fishing, seafood, and samoan myths under the swaying palms as the sun began to dip. The Se took me in his familes "beat-to-hell" pickup for a small tour of the island before returning to Meli's house. The sense of serenity was overwhelming, the mystical Tau had a palpable life force. The next day i returned by plane to Pago without incident, well almost. I forgot my keys after opening a bottle of Vailima the night before. Luckily, one of my patients worked at the airline counter, and he called Meli from his cell. 2 hours later he handed me my keys and told me to go light on the Vailima next time, we both had a good laugh and he said he would be into the clinic this week. I was sinking fast under a mountain of fa'a samoa paybacks that would need to be repaid.