9.10.2009

Ofu on My Mind

When living on an island (no matter the size or environment), at a certain interval a desire exists to get off and search for something else. This logic may have been similar to what lead Polynesians to sail thousands of miles across open ocean without knowledge of their destination. The urge to explore lies dormant in much of our daily existence, repressed beneath TVO, Mcdonalds, and Survivor re-runs. Without quite the bravado as our predecessors, we planned a weekend getaway to volcanic bow-tie shaped Ofu/Olesega islands (2.786 sq m). These idyllic islands are the definition of remote <14.175°S 169.618°W>, as time marches along much as its has in the past. Islanders retain many traditional ways that have fallen by the wayside in Tutuila.

The only transport (besides the 8 hr overnight ferry), interisland airlines, has a "charter" license which allows them to fly when ever they want, reservations are relative. For labor day weekend, we planned on departing on friday and returning on monday- simple enough. After a cancellation to the friday flight for unknown reasons we were flying high the next day in a 9-Seater Britten-Norman Islander. To give you an idea- it was similar to riding in a crowded soccer mom van on the way to the big game. It was disimilar with respect to the 65.3 million square miles of vast blue water underneath the wings of the prop islander.

After 27 minutes of airtime Ofu island airstrip came into full view and the pilot (with backward baseball cap) touched down about 20 feet from the sea. Thankfully, the driveway/airstrip is also the front lawn of the lodge, leaving us a 2 minute walk to our oceanfront room. Heavenly, peaceful, & serene are the words that pop into most visitors heads as they grab a large vailima brew and switch the auto-pilot on "hang" mode. The open vista of steep cliffs, golden beaches, and crayola reefs are reminisent of a Salavador Dali painting.

After dropping your bags, the national park is less than a five minute walk. Soon the crown of the American Samoa National Park comes into view, a powder keg of fine white sand stretching forever. When a person conjures up an image of polynesia, they are thinking of Ofu Island. The protected reef, namely hurricane hole is the icing on the cake, as a dazzingly array of marine creatures mingled between castle-like corals. Attention all neurons! We are now commencing stress reduction.
Hidden within the lodge bookshelf, I found an excellent book about a biologist who joined a troop of baboons in the Serengetti Plains, thus i commenced to disappear for 2 days. After feasting on barracuda, draining the beer supply, and reading about far away lands- the rains came. More like a wall of rain, which nearly blew the roof off. Needless to say, the airline cancelled all flights (2) and we were holed up in paradise. The winds continued to howl through the night into the next day. I was a bit nervous calling work and explaining that i was stuck on the most beautiful island in the archipelago, yet they seemed to understand as flood conditions had gripped the main island.Even returning on Tuesday seemed like a long shot- as the clouds obstructed the landing strip and winds persisted. When suddenly the courageous little islander bursts through the clouds and did a swan dive onto the 10 X 10 landing strip. Through the pouring rain the pilot yelled "all aboard" and we literally sprinted into the van, i mean plane. Before the fake background music could roll, the left engine stalled. The determined pilot seemed to look up and think why me, finally the engine roared and came to life. We taxied down the airstrip and took off into a sheet of gray, blown by the occasional wind gusts. As we all bumped fists "obama style," as i vaguely recalled that there was no radar (or windshield wipers) and the pilot was basically shooting from the hip.
Anyway, all ended well as your reading the author's blog.

General Meow Zedong Jr.

1 comment:

OldMan said...

hello kuya tim and ate mike...freire said that liberation is achieved by praxis reflection and action in the world in order to transofrm it. reflections like these, in your blog, are essential to your growth. PLUS it keeps in the loop, too. :D we can read about your life there, share your journey and not feel so lonely....

so the point is, keep writing and we'll keep reading.

mel