Radio Pago

In the early hours of September 29th a wall of water crashed over the jagged shoreline of Tutuila and changed the lives of its inhabitants forever. All told, 32 physical bodies were counted in American Samoa, yet the emotional lives affected roughly 69,000. This is a place where everyone knows everyone in some way or another.


Nearly 2 weeks after the tsunami, the remaining destruction is still staggering, the lingering stories spellbinding. Two neighbors drowned to the left of our house, in front the house flooded, cars were thrown into telephone polls, on the right 3 FEMA tents stand where once a persons home stood.


Stories

1. A women saw the water surging through her village, crushing houses instantly, her house is barely habitable. Yet, she has the only running toilet in her village, where everyone must come and do their business.
2. A co-worker know lives in a tent as her house simply doesn't exist anymore. Yet, she is at work just as before.
3. Children were recalled to school, even though some do not have homes any longer, their uniforms have been washed away, power flickers throughout the day.
4. A women has difficulty sleeping, because her village has no electricity, every sound in the night feels like another tsunami.
5. Emergency personnel have difficulty putting the image of a drowned child out of their minds, so much innocence.
6. Groups of villagers not wanting to leave the safety of the mountains elevation, for fear of the water returning.
7. A man driving his pickup truck to outrun the wall of water, not fast enough, as the car simply starts to float.
8. A couple tries to sail their boat against the rising waves as their boat capsizes, leaving only the wife to tell the story.
9. Cruise ships arrive to gawk and snap photos of others misery, the governor states that we cannot jeopardize the burgeoning tourist industry.
10. The golf course was officially closed last week, in order for top officials to conduct village assessment, if not they would be working on their swing.
11. Valium 5mg by mouth before bed, being handed out by the hospital to help an island avoid the nightmares.
12. An old man tells me that he was sipping tea as they waves poured through his house, laughing because he had Jesus in his heart.
13. Two elderly women were weaving baskets following the earthquake, when a palangi (white person)told them a tsunami warning was issued- they laughed at the fear of the foreigner- these women were swept out to sea.
14. At first, when a retired marine saw he waters rise- he thought to himself, "man this could be some good fishing".
15. Many people around the island believe the villages that were swept away, were due to the wickedness of the people. God's vengeance as non-believers.


As the worlds media attention, forgets the name Pago, the people slowly pickup the pieces. Picture 2 sets of fingers grasping onto edge of a ledge and you have the current state of affairs in Pago. This coincides with the demise of the local tuna industry, which employs 80% (in some shape or form) of the island. Seems like poor people always get the short end of the stick.


As one surveys the damage, ships are sprinkled randomly on the hillsides, the air is thick with dust/debris, water contaminated, cars upside down, buildings demolished, things not where they used to be. Yet, through all this carnage I counted as many smiles on the street as before, Samoans pushing on with pride and dignity.


These images are all within 2 minutes drive of our home. We feel lucky to be have spared the brunt of this tragedy, as our cottage sits on a hillside overlooking the may lay. I distinctly remember, saying to Michelle "i want a house by the seaside, a real south pacific dream," with my better half responding "we want a place that won't flood on a hillside." I will update as the saga continues and i travel to the outer villages. That's all from Radio Pago.

This blog took a week to publish, as electricity returned last night- 3 weeks after the tsunami.